Ditch The Retinol And AHAs In Your 20s—Experts Recommend Investing In This Ingredient Instead

Anti-aging skincare products are often filled with strong actives to resurface your skin to help prevent and smooth fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol, AHAs, peptides—they really do work, but they're potent. In your 20s, you might not need such intense ingredients (especially if you're concurrently treating acne with benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, and the like). Healthy skin, above all, is the goal.

As a 29-year-old beauty editor, that means a strong skin barrier that can fight off both premature lines and acne. The star of the show? Growth factors. Dermatologist Dendy Engleman, MD, describes them as "cellular messengers: proteins that communicate with skin cell receptors and help coordinate processes involved in renewal, repair, and tissue maintenance." They're intended to support the skin barrier and collagen and elastin production, leading to increased firmness, elasticity, and overall skin texture over time.

They don't cause the sensitivity you might expect with retinol or acids. In fact, growth factors are usually soothing and help heal skin more quickly, which is precisely why I love them so much for my skin. They make your face feel plump and hydrated immediately, but work over time to actually signal collagen production for long-term effects too. Don't just take it from me, though. Experts are also fans.

"I recommend growth factors because I think they make the skin look just…better," says aesthetician Elizabeth Hand. "Over time, they can help improve texture, firmness, and overall resilience, so the skin just looks stronger and healthier." She often uses them after treatments (like microneedling and/or lasers) because they can help shorten healing time, reduce redness, and soothe skin. "I notice my clients' skin changing from one appointment to the next after a month of incorporating growth factors," she adds.

Nope. That's why I love them so much (and so do experts). "I think about growth factors much more as a skin health ingredient," says Hand. "They're great for improving texture, helping the skin recover after procedures, supporting the skin barrier, and just making the skin look healthier overall," she says. "When your skin is functioning well, it naturally looks smoother, brighter, and more resilient."

They're also fantastic for people with sensitive skin who want the benefits of stronger treatments but can't tolerate the harsh effects. "I have super sensitive skin, so I'm overly cautious about anything that I let sit on my face," says Cosmo assistant beauty editor Jasmine Hyman. "But I love growth factor serums at 26 because they're full of collagen-promoting ingredients, minus all the harsh actives and pore cloggers that come with retinols, anti-aging serums, and whatever other products promise to smooth my face," she explains.

"I think people put way too much pressure on themselves to start 'anti-aging' as early as possible," says Hand. "In your 20s, I'd spend less time worrying about wrinkles and more time building healthy skin—that's what's going to give you the best skin in the long run."

Dr. Engleman agrees: In your 20s, focus on skin quality over anything else. "Growth factors are often targeted for people in their 30s and 40s because these are the years when many begin to notice the visible effects of reduced collagen production," she explains. "That said, signs of aging can appear as early as the 20s: someone dealing with early sun damage, post-acne texture changes, irritation, or a compromised barrier may have a reason to consider them earlier, while others may choose to wait until later in life."

Obviously, though, a $200 growth factor serum won't make up for poor skin habits. You should be washing your face every night and wearing sunscreen every day. 'If someone in their 20s already has the basics down, I don't think there's any reason they have to wait until they're 30 or 40 to start using growth factors," says Hand. "Prevention doesn't have to start once you already see signs of aging; ideally, you start before you see the signs."

So, you don't really have to choose. One of the benefits of growth factor serums is that they work really well with actives. But if you want to invest in one product, consider your skin type and sensitivity. "Retinoids are amazing for increasing cell turnover and helping with acne, pigmentation, and fine lines," explains Hand. But "growth factors are more focused on supporting the skin's repair process and improving overall skin quality," she says.

But here's the thing: Not everyone can handle retinoids, since they're typically very potent and can cause burning, peeling, and irritation, especially for those with sensitive skin. You also can't use them if you're breastfeeding or pregnant. In those scenarios, growth factors "are a really nice option because you can still support the skin without the irritation that sometimes comes with retinoids," Hand explains. "I haven't had any clients respond negatively to a growth factor, but I have with retinoids," she notes. But she does add that if you already use a retinol serum, growth factors can help reduce sensitivity and irritation.

"If someone is on a budget, I'd always prioritize sunscreen first, and then a retinoid if it's appropriate for their skin, as both of those you can get good ones of both inexpensively," says Hand. "Once those are covered, I think a growth factor serum is one of the best places to invest."

• Dendy Engleman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York, where she practices at the Shafer Clinic. She's well-versed in products and ingredients, especially over-the-counter options.

• Elizabeth Hand is an aesthetician based in New York, NY. She's also the founder of Ställe Studios, a spa in New York City offering bespoke facials. She was named one of the best facialists in NYC by Cosmopolitan.

This article originally appeared on Cosmopolitan.com. Minor edits have been made by the Cosmo.ph editors.