6 Tips To Start Your Fine Jewelry Collection, Straight From A Designer

Accessories can complete an outfit—but jewelry adds the kind of sparkle that tells a story. I personally started my collection with a simple bezel necklace, back in my rose-gold era (I'm a white-gold girl now). Since then, I've been intentional with my pieces—each one marks a memory, a milestone, or just a moment I want to celebrate.

When it came to figuring out how to start a collection, I knew I had to ask Kristine Dee, founder and designer of Kristine Dee Jewellery. With 22 years in jewelry design, she's built a career on creating pieces that are personal, timeless, and deeply rooted in her relationships with clients. At the time, she was hosting REMINISCE, a curated exhibit showcasing her most memorable collections—from her first-ever Chamber Choker in 2003 (purchased by National Artist Napoleon Abueva for his wife) to her Birthstone Bangles, which transform heirloom stones into one-of-a-kind designs.

Trained at the Pratt Institute and inspired by architects like IM Pei, Kristine combines meticulous design discipline with a sensitivity to each client’s personality, creating jewelry that tells stories and can even become future heirlooms. "This is where my aesthetics and the client’s taste come together into one magnificent piece. Jewelry is very personal because it is worn close to the body... There is no greater fulfillment than having a happy and satisfied client," she says.

Here's how Kristine recommends starting a fine jewelry collection that's wearable, meaningful, and uniquely yours.

If you’re just getting into fine jewelry, Kristine recommends easing into it with pieces you’ll actually wear. Her advice is simple: "Start small. Even if it's a small piece, as your taste grows, you'll naturally gravitate toward bigger or more intricate designs."

For me, that meant starting with my simple bezel necklace, then building up my earring collection with basic cuts for my multiple piercings—mostly round cuts, just styled differently. Kristine also suggests choosing versatile pieces you can wear every day: delicate rings, classic studs, or items you can layer and mix with future additions. As your collection grows, your style evolves with it.

Some things never go out of style. According to Kristine, these are the pieces that should form the core of any collection: "Pearls and diamonds. Then the top colored stones—emeralds, rubies, and sapphires. These are always classic."

For now, my collection is mostly classic neutrals—with the occasional pearl—but Kristine’s advice leaves plenty of room to explore colored stones or more statement pieces as your taste grows. Kristine also draws inspiration from Art Deco, Baroque, and Rococo designs, making sure your pieces stay elegant and relevant no matter the trends.

Jewelry isn't just about sparkle—it's about memory and meaning. Kristine shared how she reworks heirlooms to make them wearable again: "If you bring me a piece from your grandmother that you can't wear because it looks old, I can rework it. Then it becomes a collaboration between us in one piece. That's storytelling through jewelry."

I like to think of jewelry as bookmarks in life—each one marking a chapter. I started with a small bezel necklace when I was beginning my master’s abroad. It's a piece that felt like the start of a new chapter. In 2020, I got a smile pendant necklace, a little reminder to find happiness during a difficult year. Even the necklace I picked from Kristine's collection, with delicate pearls, reminded me of my late dad.

Every piece in your collection can hold emotion, heritage, and history, turning your jewelry into a deeply personal narrative.

Custom pieces are extra special, but Kristine emphasizes that good design starts with getting to know the wearer: "When someone commissions a piece, I spend time getting to know their taste, lifestyle, and what they want to wear it with—whether T-shirts every day or for special occasions. I want to understand the person, so the piece truly reflects them."

I experienced this firsthand with a custom initial necklace, designed in my own handwriting. I wanted it to be a grounding piece, something that felt personal every time I wore it on a day-to-day setting.

Whether you're commissioning your first piece or adding a statement item, personalization ensures your collection is both unique and meaningful.

Many young women are starting to think of jewelry as a long-term investment or even a family legacy. Kristine advises focusing on yourself first: "I tell them to buy it for themselves. Jewelry should first reflect the wearer's story."

As much as I like the idea of someday passing pieces down to hypothetical future kids, I'm buying jewelry for myself to enjoy what I've earned, celebrate moments, and feel good wearing it. At the same time, there's something special about owning a piece that once belonged to someone you love—a tangible connection to a memory or a person. Pieces you choose and cherish today aren’t just for tomorrow; they're love letters to yourself, with a little room for history, too.

Jewelry is more than design—it's about experience, care, and how it makes you feel. Kristine emphasizes: "Design is only 10% of it. The other 90% is the business side—marketing, craftsmanship, and service. Jewelry is a service-based industry because it's very personal. It's about how you make people feel, not just selling a product."

Here's how you can put this tip into practice:

• Choose designers who value craft. Look for handmade pieces and attention to detail. Your jewelry should be made to last, not just look pretty on a shelf.

• Check the materials. High-quality metals and secure settings will stand up to your day-to-day life and retain value.

• Test the service. I've learned the hard way: bangles splitting, clasps giving out, even stones getting lost. It pays to work with designers and stores who aren't just selling you a product, but are just as invested in your pieces as you are—making repairs, offering guidance, and ensuring your jewelry keeps up with your life.

• Think long-term. A well-made piece isn't just beautiful today—it's a jewelry staple you'll love for years.

It's easy to feel a little daunted by fine jewelry, but TBH, there's nothing wrong with rocking your everyday non-fine pieces, too. I personally like to mix and match, depending on my mood—or even test out a style in more affordable pieces before committing to it in fine jewelry.

At the end of the day, jewelry isn't just decoration. It's art, and like any piece of art, it's a way to express yourself—and for the maker, to share their vision. Whether it's a delicate bezel necklace, a quirky pendant, or a reworked heirloom, each piece tells a story, shows off your personality, and marks a moment in your life.

Fine jewelry doesn't have to feel intimidating—it's just another way to play with style, celebrate memories, and show off your creativity.